In a world of ever-changing beauty trends, it can be hard to keep up with the “Next big thing”, but we think this one is something worth talking about.
I (Alicia Phoenix, Prolong Lash Head of Marketing and in-house Lash Expert) accompanied Jodi our CEO to the International Lash Masters Conference in Sunny Gold Coast, Australia to host the day as MC.
Not only did we have a ball meeting lovely lash artists from all over Australia and New Zealand, we had the chance to show attendees our lash aftercare products, specially our lash cleanser, Prolong Lash Cleanser Concentrate - that is designed to be diluted and resold to lash clients! We had a lot of fun during this conference, but dare we say it…we learned a thing or two while we were there!
From a truly informative presentation on UV lashes by Kiki and Andy from Lash Plus to some seriously insightful marketing tips from Maddy Birdcage from Birdcage Marketing we were soaking up all the lash knowledge we could get. But, as a lash artist of over 15 years, the presentation that really got me excited was by Ha Mee, a Lash Master! Ha Mee is a prolific Lash Trainer, Lash Judge, and Conference organizer, founder of Glamoreyelash, and is considered the leading designer of eyelash extensions in Vietnam.
Ha Mee introduced us to a lash style we haven’t seen before, Phoenix Style Lashes. Now with a name like Alicia Phoenix, how could I not get excited about this one?
Ha Mee specializes in extremely stylized lash sets…think bold, think long, think fantasy, think Anime, and the Phoenix Style Lashes which she has invented, nail all those briefs.
Ha Mee’s Phoenix Style Lashes
The Phoenix-style lash certainly gives off an anime vibe. Amine lashes are an extremely exaggerated style of lash extensions built with dramatic spikes, likened to the lashes styled on anime cartoon characters. With that picture in mind, it's hard not to liken phoenix style lashes to this popular anime style. But there are some differences.
How to create the Phoenix Style Lash
- Step 1: The set is built layer by layer, beginning with a base set. During her presentation, He Mee informed us that she starts by creating a classic set of extensions across the lash line using J Curl lashes in sizes 9mm – 12mm. Personally from what I observed in her video demonstration, I believe that she actually uses closed fans rather than classic lashes, such as what you would use to create a “wet set”. Though I'm sure the set can be achieved with either.
- Step 2: Start applying the “spikes”, He Mee created the spikes from slightly off the center of the eye to the outer corner. The lengths of the spikes were 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, and 19mm also using a J Curl.
- Step 3: This is where the set changes from an ordinary set of extensions to something quite different. Once the spikes are in place, neighboring spikes are then stuck together at the tip. He Mee instructed us to use a “soft gel”, which she described as a “lash-specific”, non-permanent gel to bind the tips of the spikes to one another. Using this method, the gel was able to be washed off daily by the client and would need to be reapplied by the client daily in order to maintain the look. She also gave us an alternative for a permanent variation on the spikes, and that is to use a small amount of lash adhesive to bond the tips together.
Insightful Q&A sessions about Phoenix Style Lashes from the Audience
We were fortunate enough to have some time for a Q&A during Ha Mee’s presentation, and Hee Mee answered some questions that just about every lash artist in the room was dying to know the answers to.
How long does this set of lash extensions last?
Ha Mee informed us that phoenix-style lashes should last the same amount of time as a standard set of extensions. Ordinarily, for a traditional style, I would advise booking for a refill at the 2-3 week mark, but the lashes can last from 6-8 weeks in total.
What is the “Soft Gel” and where can we buy it?
Ha Mee said that the gel she referenced was a gel that’s specifically made for eyelash extensions. I haven’t been able to source this interesting-sounding gel as yet, though I'm diligently on the hunt! If you find it reach out to us at info@prolonglash.com.au, we would love to share a source.
What is the refill process when it comes to the spikes?
According to Ha Mee, the refill process is much the same as any eyelash extension refill. She did note that if you have glued your spikes together rather than using the gel method, you will need to remove the spike from both natural lashes and replace it if it has grown out. If you have just used the gel, you can refill as normal.
Can you brush the lash extensions when the spikes are bonded?
Ha Mee recommends brushing from the top down, not from under the lash line, to avoid catching lashes on the lash brush. If you are using the permanent adhesive bond on your spikes I would think it would be safest to avoid brushing the spikes at all as they will likely catch and be pulled by the brush.
My thoughts about the Phoenix Style Lashes
I think the Phoenix Style Lash Set is lots of fun, personally, I think it's more suited to be a showcase set of lashes, something to display on your social media or website to show off your talent, or something you might create for a special occasion.
In terms of everyday wear, I do have concerns, particularly when it comes to permanently bonding the spikes.
If a client wanted to wear this set ongoing, I would strongly recommend using the method of non-permanently gelling the spikes together to allow the client to cleanse, separate, and brush out the lash line each day, this would result in the client needing to purchase the gel, and reapply daily, but I believe this is the safest option.
If you were to use the method of using permanent adhesive to close bond the spikes, you are essentially gluing multiple lashes together. This is considered unsafe in the lash industry. Adhering multiple natural lashes to one another means that the natural lashes cannot grow and shed properly according to their own lash cycle. This kind of clumping can cause blocked hair follicles, and lead to follicle infections. So not a method I would personally recommend.
At the end of the day, new techniques and lash styles are coming into our industry constantly and our views of the ways things “should be done” are continually being challenged. The choice is yours as to whether you embrace the “hot new thing” or not. The job of a lash artist is a thrill. In what other industry can you truly learn something new every day!
Explore more helpful hints and tips on the Prolong Lash blog, our YouTube Channel, and our Podcast "The Aussie Lashwives"! Plus, learn how to partner with us to grow your small business today.
